Roaming Rhode Island

Mon. June 14 - 21 Bradford, RI Ashaway Resort 

According to mom and dad our drive up here although not long in miles was exhausting thanks to the rain, wind and only moderately maintained roads  This resort has loads of amenities and is by the far the largest one we have camped in. 

They have over 200 seasonal campers. Dad and mom have been chuckling at all the added accoutrements people have at their campsites. Who knew? I have lots of room to walk with them and loads of new smells to absorb! I even checked out the historical cemetery across from our campsite...most of the grave markers are old and broken, the ones that mom could read date back to the mid 1800's..

M & D are moving a bit slower since we are here. (Three big drives in less than 7 days is catching up to them…) We have been enjoying our closest big town, Westerly. It’s really charming with loads of beautiful homes, a lovely, historic downtown, charming restaurants, shops and a variety of beaches. Fortunately, there’s a river close by where I’m allowed in because all the beaches don’t allow dogs until after 6 PM. Humph! 

Here's just one of the fabulous breakfast/brunch restaurant/markets here...The Cooked Goose. Don't click on their menu unless you want to salivate like I do... I'm just grateful that mom shares...

I did enjoy our visit to Mystic Seaport Museum, the newer Village and the original downtown that you see above. Going through the older downtown was just like the old days with the drawbridge jamming up traffic on these old, narrow streets. 

M & D keep returning to this working wooden ship museum to see what the latest ship they are restoring and hear it's story. Usually, the rebuild has a student component and this latest ship is no exception. If you don't think you will make it here, here is a longer virtual Mystic Seaport Museum tour to give you a sense of what you are missing. ...Me, I enjoyed all the grassy areas there. 

The bottom right image is of a Danish wooden supply ship that rescued over 300 Jews and Allies during WWII when Denmark was under Nazi Martial Law...Mom, dad and I talked to the interpreter and his story about this boat was empowering...reminding you what a difference one courageous individual can do...

As you can see from a couple images, mom and dad let me get into the sailing spirit..."Aye, Aye Matey!!!" 

Dad visited inside many of the buildings/working shops while mom and I stayed outside to "people and dog" watch. (Always entertaining on a gorgeous day. We got the biggest kick out of watching a 5/6 year old trying to hoist a very large sail.)

Mom’s favorite parts here besides the ships themselves, are the ship carving, models and ship folk art. She told me that some of the ships mastheads are emotionally, realistic while the scrimshaw and needle work are simply stunning! This museum, village and town are a lot to absorb, so after exploring them, we went home...

The next day we first drove to Fort Adams Park in Newport, RI since M & D had never been there. 

It was so pretty for a fort because its location rests on a point.  Dad went to explore, but he didn't spend long; since much of it is in such bad shape that many areas are closed. 

This fort reminded him of Fort Jackson in the Dry Tortugas, off Key West, FL. 

He told us that this fort was erected during Adam's presidency, and named after him, but was never attacked and served into WWII when they installed more modern guns.

Mom and I enjoyed strolling around the Bay Walk outside, watching the beautiful power and sailing boats while dad visited inside this old fort. Needless to say, sailing is very, very popular here...We watched a sailboat regatta out past the SSV Oliver Hazard Perry.  Mom and I talked with some of the sailing school faculty, (who wanted to love on me)... What can I say, "I'm lovable!" 

They even told mom about the SSV Oliver Hazard Perry. “Even when students can't physically come aboard our ship to join in-person programs, Oliver Hazard Perry Rhode Island is committed to providing an exciting and creative learning experience. Visit our Online Learning page to explore maritime terminology, technology, and history from anywhere in the world, accompanied by classroom learning tools for teachers and students from Grades K-12.” 

When we finished up at this park, dad drove us along Newport's Ocean Drive...

The upkeep on these old mansions are so high that some have been turned into hotel/resorts like Oceancliff Resort that you see above...

 Above you can see the Coast Guard building and Brenton Point Park "The park is located at the point of land where Narragansett Bay meets the Atlantic, midway along renowned Ocean Drive." The Portuguese Discovery Monument is also located there. 

Vanderbilt's Breakers is the most imposing of the Victorian mansions outside Newport’s historic downtown. It is situated on cliffs over the Atlantic ocean. Mom said it took her breath away when they were there the first time almost 50 years ago... 

Here are a few of the other open mansions that mom researched from their last time here...

“Marble House a Gilded Age mansion located at 596 Bellevue Avenue in Newport, Rhode Island, was built from 1888 to 1892 as a summer cottage for Alva and William Kissam Vanderbilt and was designed by Richard Morris Hunt in the Beaux Arts style.” The Marble House virtual tour for those who might not ever make it here.

“The Elms was the summer residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Julius Berwind of Philadelphia and New York. Mr. Berwind made his fortune in the coal industry. In 1898, the Berwinds engaged Philadelphia architect Horace Trumbauer to design a house modeled after the mid-18th century French chateau d'Asnieres (c.1750)" 

The Elms virtual tour

Rosecliff “Commissioned by Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs in 1899, architect Stanford White modeled Rosecliff after the Grand Trianon, the garden retreat of French kings at Versailles. After the house was completed in 1902, at a reported cost of $2.5 million, Mrs. Oelrichs hosted fabulous entertainments here, including a fairy tale dinner and a party featuring famed magician Harry Houdini.” Rosecliff virtual tour. This mansion has been featured in a number of movies...

There are far more homes along Ocean Dr than when they were here last. Downtown Newport has become incredibly touristy. It was definitely more quaint and less affected their last visit. Progress?  For some...

Mom really loved some of the incredibly artistic gates on the newer mini mansions.

Newport's historic downtown is still charming thanks to its historic buildings...many that have been repurposed...

Part of this trip has been a ride down memory lane with mom and dad.  Dad was originally assigned here in the 1968 as a midshipman.   The original US Naval War College remain, but much has changed with the addition of new, modern buildings that weren't here the number of times dad was sent here. Like the town, it had grown. This naval base now has more Naval and Leadership schools located here. 

For those of you that don't know much about the War College, "Established in 1884 as an advanced course of professional study for naval officers, the U.S. Naval War College educates and develops leaders at specific stages in their careers from all services, U.S. government agencies and departments, and international navies." 

During dad's Naval career, it was a career booster to be assigned to programs at the War College.. Dad had the honor of attending the Naval War College in the early 1980's and graduated from the War College's Policy and Strategy Course. He was telling us about all the books, he had to read, and papers he had to submit; prior to attending his classes here...Whew! It exhausted me!!! 

He also reminded us that during the 1930's, one of the war gaming problems was how to fight the Japanese in the Pacific...That became the basis for the WWII Island Hopping/Leapfrogging Strategy in the Pacific... So, it really isn't all fun and games...

Dad enjoyed his visit to the history museum here. Much to both of their surprises they still have an Officer's Club. It's in name only, anyone can use this Club now; as long as they have access to this base. M & D enjoyed their lunch, despite the strong wind off the Bay.  We headed for our campsite... having satisfied mom and dad's curiosities...

Dad wanted to see Groton and New London, CT again to see what changes had happened both at the Submarine base and in the town. M & D said that the submarine base is prettier than they remember with some newer, more modern buildings. They noticed many of the street signs were named after subs lost...including what year and how many went down with them...Sobering... 

Dad started out his naval career in the submarine service having survived his interview with the "Father of the Submarine Program", Admiral Hyman Rickover. He was a brilliant, eccentric leader/character, immigrant that few crossed...After struggling through half of the submarine school; (as a psychology major, not math or engineering) dad recognized this program wasn't where he could best serve the Navy. That decision resulted in a second Rickover interview, when he told Rickover as much...

Mom said we will never know, but Rickover must have agreed with him. Dad was reassigned as a Surface Warfare Officer and sent to the Atlantic Fleet in Norfolk aboard the USS John King. He honorably served for five years on active duty and another 25 in reserve...all which sent him all over the world including serving in the the Vietnam War. During his reserve duty, he had the honor of driving a ship loaded with Midshipman over to the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977 in Portsmouth, England. Mom joined him and it's one of their cherished memories of their time there...(This area is a sentimental place for them since they got engaged here almost 50 years ago...)

New London,CT like Norfolk, VA have really cleaned and spruced up their cities to be quite the cool, hip towns. This snazzy waterfront area was really lovely...nothing like the old days... nasty massage parlors, titty bars and worse...What in the world are those places???

As we were enjoying the downtown scenery, M & D realized that they had never been to the US Coast Guard Academy, not far from downtown New London. 

With their military ID's they had no trouble getting on campus...WOW! Like the other academies this one didn't disappoint! Gorgeous!!! 

Dad reminded us that it was Alexander Hamilton, as the Secretary of the Treasury who established this academy. There was a hall named after him and more than one sculpture...Mom loved their motto, "Semper Paratus," on all their artistic banners...Dad, the latin expert translated, "Always Prepared"

Mom said if she had to chose one academy, it would be this one because you don't have to wait for a war. "You are always needed for something." The large, black sculptural looking object is actually a buoy. For those wanting to have a quick visit, another virtual tour

Since we weren't far from one of my folk's favorite, charming small town, Stonington, CT we drove there...

We tried to eat at the DogWatch Cafe, only to discover it was the popular dining place in town...reservations preferred at all times...Shucks! As cool as it was, M & D didn't feel like waiting...Although mom was tempted to buy some of their really clever shirts...since some of the proceeds goes to rescue dogs... 

M & D didn't recognize Skipper's Dock, the old Stonington waterfront restaurant that they had eaten in years ago...The last time they saw it was on the Weather Channel during Hurricane Sandy, when the parking lot was completely underwater...It's now the much fancier Breakwater that you see above.

Mom and dad decided that their last two days here were going to be laid back...enjoying more places in Westerly. After talking to our campsite neighbors, we were told to eat at the old Haversham restaurant. Dad loves his prime rib and it's what they are known for on the weekend... It didn't disappoint...Fabulous food, atmosphere and service... I wouldn't know since they left me behind. Mom did treat me to bits of her leftovers...Delicious! 

After another The Cooked Goose brunch, we drove to see one of the many beaches around Westerly, RI, Watchhill. It's supposed to be public beach, but when we drove by it and through the residential and commercial areas, you have to be incredibly creative not to spend a fortune going to this beach. The website explains how to become a beach member for a year...Mom found this Vogue article when she was researching Watchhill beach...So, for you Taylor Swift fans...

You are looking back to Oceanhouse that's celebrating its 150th year... It reminded us of the Del in Coronado, CA. We weren't about to pay $50 to park for the day, so we kept going... 

Our best find here as we said is the Pawcatuck River. It's free to park, we get to see swimmers, khakiers, paddle boarders and today a car boat or an amphicar...

Pippi gets to fetch and swim to her heart's content....playing with us and new friends... If I can find enough connectivity, I'll post a couple videos of Pippi and the car boat...

For Father's Day mom offered dad a number of suggestions, knowing that he wanted to be back to watch the US Open Golf Tournament finish at Torrey Pines. That San Diego municipal golf course isn't far from Mike, my human brother's house. Mike and his friend, Derek were going to two days of the tournament. We can't wait to hear what that was like... 

Dad chose mom's suggestion of starting the day with one of her breakfasts here, afterwards heading to the Langworthy Farm which is close by. It turned out to be a relaxing way to celebrate Father's Day with a delightful cheese & fruit plate while their tasting their wine. Their large patio was located beside the old, farm's side yard with their luscious, verdant, green grass and mature trees. (I was bummed that M & D wouldn't let me roll around in that pristine grass. Rats!) 

Shauna was our charming and informative hostess, who loved me!!! This tiny farm grows exclusively white grapes and buys the rest to blend. The original Queen Anne farmhouse doubles as a B & B. It would be a fabulous place for a small outdoor gathering. I personally loved the cheeses, while M & D did enjoy three of their wines that they bought to bring with us.

After leaving the winery, we headed to the cute town of Wakefield, RI off RI-1N to 

Whalers Brewery. Dad had their IPA since we have been up here and liked it. M & D skipped the flights and just chose a glass each of their own favorite. 

Mom thought that this craft beer's business plan was simple but brilliant. Make a good beer, locally market it, add a tasting room in an old Victorian textile building. The tasting room was mammoth with tons of inside space for families to bring their kids, dogs, outside food, play games, and hang out...There was a wonderful mix of upbeat music to keep the mood lively and an interesting mix of people of all ages, socioeconomic levels and cultures. I enjoyed meeting a couple of puppies: a Cockapoo and an Aussiepoo. Ali, Kyle and crew were very welcoming, helpful and informed...Ali gave mom more places to visit in this area...

Mom loves these old stone buildings being repurposed into a variety of businesses. We have seen that often up here and it's really refreshing!!!

Once again, M & D are already putting together another Eastern Coast trip in their minds for a couple of summers from now...We definitely want to return to spend a week on Cape Cod and a few other islands along this coast...even a week here isn't enough to take so much in...

One of mom and dad's observations up here is that much of this area is still very rural. Waze, the GPS phone app we use has taken us on so many tiny roads that have no middle paint lines because they are so narrow, incredibly curvy and hilly. Basically treacherous! Which is why we are traveling on them only with our truck. 

Like when they were on Moondance, they feel like we are seeing a good mix of rural and city...So much of it beautiful and picturesque!!! We are loving life for sure...