Captivating Cape Ann and Surrounds

Dad shot the strawberry moon the other night as we looked out over the Jones River Salt Flats.
Mon. June 21-28  (7 nights) Camp Ann Campsite, Gloucester, MA

My last morning in Bradford started with a bang! I can honestly say that I was “sick as a dog!” I tried to wake mom up fast enough to let me out the door, but she couldn’t be moved so quickly…AAAHHH…I think all that river water didn’t channel well in my system…Once, I got it all out I felt somewhat better, but I was hungry and mom wasn’t giving me much…plain rice…YUCK…now the chicken she shared with me was much better! Mom and dad cleaned up after me the best they could with mom giving me a bath before we left RI . 

We had an easy drive to Camp Ann with mom and dad leaving me to sleep after our lunch here in SA. They took all the laundry to a laundromat to clean up after my mess. So, Sorry… 

The best part of the day was meeting up with Alice and Tim again. I hadn’t seen them since I was a tiny puppy. We had a wonderful dinner together in downtown Gloucester. They advised us on places to go see for our next day here. What we have seen of Gloucester has been very cool. I love all the fishy smells in the air from the fishing industry here…Dad is looking forward to his fresh lobster and other shellfish choices currently in season. The streets are narrow here with homes perched on hillsides and gardens in every available space. 

After roaming around Gloucester for the day...

We found lots of murals and artwork around the town...

"Also known as the Gloucester Fishermen’s Memorial, this iconic statue rests on a five-foot granite base located on the south side of Stacy Boulevard, at the edge of Gloucester Harbor. This eight-foot-tall statue shows a fisherman dressed in oilskins standing clenched at the wheel on the leaning deck of his ship. Positioned so that the fisherman is gazing out over Gloucester Harbor and sculpted with a rough finish to demonstrate the fisherman’s rugged appearance and impending danger. Sculpted by artist Leonard Craske and modeled after a local fisherman, the monument was completed in 1925 in honor of Gloucester’s 300th anniversary. The inscription at the base of the statue, from the Bible’s Psalm 107:23, reads: “They That Go Down to The Sea in Ships, 1623-1923”. Circling the monument are plaques with the names of those lost at sea from 1716–2001. Six of the most recent names on the tile are those of captain and crew from the Gloucester-based Andrea Gail, the fishing boat made famous in the book and film, The Perfect Storm."

Gloucester is a coastal city on Cape Ann, in Massachusetts. The waterfront mixed beauty with the fishing/lobster industry in the area...

Cape Ann Museum has work by 1800s maritime artist Fitz Henry Lane. East, the sands of Good Harbor Beach extend to Salt Island at low tide. Southwest, 1920s medieval-style Hammond Castle Museum was home to inventor John Hays Hammond, Jr." We have to wait for some places to open up on the weekends. Bekka was up here for a wedding at that castle years ago...she loved it and this area!!!

Dad took us on a driving tour of part of Cape Ann. 

First we went to Rocky Neck, a wonderful, old, quaint artists communities.

 It was fun to stroll around there. 

While mom checked out some of the wonderful studios, dad and I waited outside and the next thing we knew, we were in Rockport...There were very few Vacancies signs...people are traveling...

The roads are narrow, winding, lovely forested or sea coast roads on this part of our adventure.  The views everywhere are fabulous! 

“Salem is a city on the north coast of Massachusetts above Boston. It's famous for its 1692 witch trials, during which several locals were executed for allegedly practicing witchcraft. Landmarks from this episode include the Witch House, the former home of a trial judge. 

Loved the painted ladies everywhere and the way they repurpose old buildings like the Salem Armory. Dad spotted the 5 Cent Savings...

 The House of the Seven Gables and Nathaniel Hawthorne's Birthplace

Some of the rooms inside the Seven Gables House...even the original grey wallpaper that had to be reproduced.

These photos show Winter Island, an old Coast Guard base we could have camped at but the facilities were minimal with NO privacy. Winter Island, was home to the Coast Guard Seaplanes until recently and you can see the old hanger in the one photo.

The Peabody Essex Museum has a massive collection of global art and artifacts, including a rebuilt Qing-era Chinese house.” Thanks to mom and dad’s Looper buddies, Alice and Tim Clarke, they got to go sightseeing in Salem & Boston without me. I got to play with Millie, their sweet black lab, roll in their pristine lawn, chase the trespassing rabbits. It was bliss! Mom loved the collection and will probably post a few on Facebook...

The Clarke's beautiful views from their Danver's home. They raised their children in Salem, the next town over and are still very involved in that town.

Heading out away from the Clarke's waterfront home, Tim got permission for the swing bridge to open for us... In Salem the Coast Guard maintain a CG light in a downtown church that lines up with one of their sea lights to direct boats into the harbor. 

After they returned from their Salem excursion, we enjoyed some delicious libations while we watched sailboats take off for one of the many Marblehead Races. After enjoying a fantastic charcuterie tray on board, Alice still served us a delightful chicken salad over couscous back at their home. Deliciousness!!!! 

Some of the beautiful old Captain's homes still here, with the exception of Chestnut St., many have been made into condos or apartments. Here's some of the information mom remembered from their Salem Hop on Hop Off Bus Tour with Wiggles. MA is considered a naturally good harbor, supposedly better than Boston. Custom houses helped collect the money for the area with all the supplies passing through this harbor.

M and D walked around the historic downtown area after riding the trolley

Marblehead sits along the coastline with most of the neighborhoods situated on the hills; so everyone has a good view. Originally, Marblehead was home to the working class, pirates and scoundrels...now, it considers itself to be gentile. 

Most of the large older mansions were built just for summer living and it’s the same for many of the McMansions. Marblehead is a big sailing town. We saw the little ones learning to sail. Marblehead has 5 yacht clubs, but no gas stations. 

Beaker Light is more unusual structure. Lots of small islands along way to Boston are run by the state or federal park service. Harbor Island, outside of Marblehead is the local YMCA summer day camp. The kids and counselors arrive and leave by boat each day. 

 

We took the Salem Ferry down to Boston on a blustery beautiful morning. We had the pleasure of seeing whales off in the distance, always exciting! As with most new cities/towns, our first adventure is always the Hop on Hop off Bus to get oriented. I’m already figuring we will have to return for a longer city stay to see everything we want to see here. 

Lots of harbor islands that are part of their state park system. The Harbor is now so clean, that you can swim in it thanks to the latest sewage technology. One island has the sewage treatment system  Another the old mental health hospital, long since closed. One island created from piled up waste from building the subways and highways. 

“Fort Warren, on St George Island, is a historic fort on the 28-acre (110,000 m2) Georges Island at the entrance to Boston Harbor. The fort is named for Revolutionary War hero Dr. Joseph Warren, who sent Paul Revere on his famous ride, and was later killed at the Battle of Bunker Hill. The name was transferred in 1833 from the first Fort Warren – built in 1808 – which was renamed Fort Winthrop.[2]”

 We enjoyed Tia’s fish & chip lunch prior to our bus ride from the historic North End, the Mercantile Mall has been repurposed into shops and restaurants. 

There are 53 neighborhoods around Boston starting with the North end. Puritans started here in 1630’s, followed by multiple immigrants. The North end is known for the Italian immigrants later in the 19 c. In 1775 Paul Revere rode from here on his famous Midnight Ride to let the militia know how the British were coming. "One if by land or two if by sea." North Church was the tallest structure for years here. 

Charlestown Navy Yard is part art of the National Parks.  The USS Constitution  is here “USS Constitution, also known as Old Ironsides, is a wooden-hulled, three-masted heavy frigate of the United States Navy. She is the world's oldest ship of any type still afloat.[Note 1] She was launched in 1797, one of six original frigates authorized for construction by the Naval Act of 1794 and the third constructed. The name "Constitution" was among ten names submitted to President George Washington by Secretary of War Timothy Pickering in March of 1795 for the frigates that were to be constructed.[10][11] Joshua Humphreys designed the frigates to be the young Navy's capital ships, and so Constitution and her sister ships were larger and more heavily armed and built than standard frigates of the period. She was built at Edmund Hartt's shipyard in the North End of Boston, Massachusetts. Her first duties were to provide protection for American merchant shipping during the Quasi-War with France and to defeat the Barbary pirates in the First Barbary War.” Fun fact: Old Ironsides had copper sheathing over it's wooden hull that was put on by Paul Revere. She is the oldest commissioned warship left… 

Freedom Trail established in the 1960’s and is marked by a red road trail. 

The 1960’s they got rid of old row houses and built science, medical and business buildings that make up a big part of the local economy today. Wooden shop signs show what they are selling  Cheers bar was originally Bullfinch. 

Haymarket is by the largest commercial area in this country. "Faneuil Hall was a large market building that served as a meeting place for Patriots on the eve of the American Revolution. Meetings to discuss the Stamp Act, the Boston Massacre, the “tea crisis,” and other grievances with Britain were all held at Faneuil Hall between 1764 and 1775."

Beacon Hill one of the few hills left here, most of them were leveled to make more room. Probably one of the most, ritzy neighborhoods. In 1798 MA State House was built in front of Boston Commons. The common's 2300 hundred acres of grounds provides lots to space to enjoy the outdoors. 

The old Boston Jail has been converted to a boutique hotel, the Liberty. 

“Let me captivate you!” Massachusetts, is a Native American word,  "Land of many hills."  Back Bay is beautiful and ritzy suburb built by the merchant class. Many of the townhouses are multiple use now. South End built on man made reclaimed land has wonderful restaurants and row houses with a large, thriving LBGT community. Sixty eight percent of land around Boston is all reclaimed land.

Copley Square is popular area. Named after the portrait painter, John Singleton Copley 

Boston Public Library is next to the finish line of the Boston Marathon. 

Plaza District with Park Plaza Hotel boasted a radio in each room when it was opened in the late 1920’s. Takes a whole city block without many exits. Chinatown here since 1874 it's the smallest, but densest area. Wurlitzer and Steinway pianos made famous here. In 1773 Boston Tea Party, Samuel Adams along with 125 men boarded a ship and threw overboard the Chinese tea...

Seaport District, or South Boston Waterfront. About a sq mile around. 

Saturday night we had our friends over for appetizers and drinks...not nearly as fancy as they had for us...then, we were off to Yella on the Water in Gloucester...delicious and I got lots of loving... Our visit here was made more pleasurable by Alice dogsitting me while M & D wandered...

Roaming Rhode Island

Mon. June 14 - 21 Bradford, RI Ashaway Resort 

According to mom and dad our drive up here although not long in miles was exhausting thanks to the rain, wind and only moderately maintained roads  This resort has loads of amenities and is by the far the largest one we have camped in. 

They have over 200 seasonal campers. Dad and mom have been chuckling at all the added accoutrements people have at their campsites. Who knew? I have lots of room to walk with them and loads of new smells to absorb! I even checked out the historical cemetery across from our campsite...most of the grave markers are old and broken, the ones that mom could read date back to the mid 1800's..

M & D are moving a bit slower since we are here. (Three big drives in less than 7 days is catching up to them…) We have been enjoying our closest big town, Westerly. It’s really charming with loads of beautiful homes, a lovely, historic downtown, charming restaurants, shops and a variety of beaches. Fortunately, there’s a river close by where I’m allowed in because all the beaches don’t allow dogs until after 6 PM. Humph! 

Here's just one of the fabulous breakfast/brunch restaurant/markets here...The Cooked Goose. Don't click on their menu unless you want to salivate like I do... I'm just grateful that mom shares...

I did enjoy our visit to Mystic Seaport Museum, the newer Village and the original downtown that you see above. Going through the older downtown was just like the old days with the drawbridge jamming up traffic on these old, narrow streets. 

M & D keep returning to this working wooden ship museum to see what the latest ship they are restoring and hear it's story. Usually, the rebuild has a student component and this latest ship is no exception. If you don't think you will make it here, here is a longer virtual Mystic Seaport Museum tour to give you a sense of what you are missing. ...Me, I enjoyed all the grassy areas there. 

The bottom right image is of a Danish wooden supply ship that rescued over 300 Jews and Allies during WWII when Denmark was under Nazi Martial Law...Mom, dad and I talked to the interpreter and his story about this boat was empowering...reminding you what a difference one courageous individual can do...

As you can see from a couple images, mom and dad let me get into the sailing spirit..."Aye, Aye Matey!!!" 

Dad visited inside many of the buildings/working shops while mom and I stayed outside to "people and dog" watch. (Always entertaining on a gorgeous day. We got the biggest kick out of watching a 5/6 year old trying to hoist a very large sail.)

Mom’s favorite parts here besides the ships themselves, are the ship carving, models and ship folk art. She told me that some of the ships mastheads are emotionally, realistic while the scrimshaw and needle work are simply stunning! This museum, village and town are a lot to absorb, so after exploring them, we went home...

The next day we first drove to Fort Adams Park in Newport, RI since M & D had never been there. 

It was so pretty for a fort because its location rests on a point.  Dad went to explore, but he didn't spend long; since much of it is in such bad shape that many areas are closed. 

This fort reminded him of Fort Jackson in the Dry Tortugas, off Key West, FL. 

He told us that this fort was erected during Adam's presidency, and named after him, but was never attacked and served into WWII when they installed more modern guns.

Mom and I enjoyed strolling around the Bay Walk outside, watching the beautiful power and sailing boats while dad visited inside this old fort. Needless to say, sailing is very, very popular here...We watched a sailboat regatta out past the SSV Oliver Hazard Perry.  Mom and I talked with some of the sailing school faculty, (who wanted to love on me)... What can I say, "I'm lovable!" 

They even told mom about the SSV Oliver Hazard Perry. “Even when students can't physically come aboard our ship to join in-person programs, Oliver Hazard Perry Rhode Island is committed to providing an exciting and creative learning experience. Visit our Online Learning page to explore maritime terminology, technology, and history from anywhere in the world, accompanied by classroom learning tools for teachers and students from Grades K-12.” 

When we finished up at this park, dad drove us along Newport's Ocean Drive...

The upkeep on these old mansions are so high that some have been turned into hotel/resorts like Oceancliff Resort that you see above...

 Above you can see the Coast Guard building and Brenton Point Park "The park is located at the point of land where Narragansett Bay meets the Atlantic, midway along renowned Ocean Drive." The Portuguese Discovery Monument is also located there. 

Vanderbilt's Breakers is the most imposing of the Victorian mansions outside Newport’s historic downtown. It is situated on cliffs over the Atlantic ocean. Mom said it took her breath away when they were there the first time almost 50 years ago... 

Here are a few of the other open mansions that mom researched from their last time here...

“Marble House a Gilded Age mansion located at 596 Bellevue Avenue in Newport, Rhode Island, was built from 1888 to 1892 as a summer cottage for Alva and William Kissam Vanderbilt and was designed by Richard Morris Hunt in the Beaux Arts style.” The Marble House virtual tour for those who might not ever make it here.

“The Elms was the summer residence of Mr. and Mrs. Edward Julius Berwind of Philadelphia and New York. Mr. Berwind made his fortune in the coal industry. In 1898, the Berwinds engaged Philadelphia architect Horace Trumbauer to design a house modeled after the mid-18th century French chateau d'Asnieres (c.1750)" 

The Elms virtual tour

Rosecliff “Commissioned by Nevada silver heiress Theresa Fair Oelrichs in 1899, architect Stanford White modeled Rosecliff after the Grand Trianon, the garden retreat of French kings at Versailles. After the house was completed in 1902, at a reported cost of $2.5 million, Mrs. Oelrichs hosted fabulous entertainments here, including a fairy tale dinner and a party featuring famed magician Harry Houdini.” Rosecliff virtual tour. This mansion has been featured in a number of movies...

There are far more homes along Ocean Dr than when they were here last. Downtown Newport has become incredibly touristy. It was definitely more quaint and less affected their last visit. Progress?  For some...

Mom really loved some of the incredibly artistic gates on the newer mini mansions.

Newport's historic downtown is still charming thanks to its historic buildings...many that have been repurposed...

Part of this trip has been a ride down memory lane with mom and dad.  Dad was originally assigned here in the 1968 as a midshipman.   The original US Naval War College remain, but much has changed with the addition of new, modern buildings that weren't here the number of times dad was sent here. Like the town, it had grown. This naval base now has more Naval and Leadership schools located here. 

For those of you that don't know much about the War College, "Established in 1884 as an advanced course of professional study for naval officers, the U.S. Naval War College educates and develops leaders at specific stages in their careers from all services, U.S. government agencies and departments, and international navies." 

During dad's Naval career, it was a career booster to be assigned to programs at the War College.. Dad had the honor of attending the Naval War College in the early 1980's and graduated from the War College's Policy and Strategy Course. He was telling us about all the books, he had to read, and papers he had to submit; prior to attending his classes here...Whew! It exhausted me!!! 

He also reminded us that during the 1930's, one of the war gaming problems was how to fight the Japanese in the Pacific...That became the basis for the WWII Island Hopping/Leapfrogging Strategy in the Pacific... So, it really isn't all fun and games...

Dad enjoyed his visit to the history museum here. Much to both of their surprises they still have an Officer's Club. It's in name only, anyone can use this Club now; as long as they have access to this base. M & D enjoyed their lunch, despite the strong wind off the Bay.  We headed for our campsite... having satisfied mom and dad's curiosities...

Dad wanted to see Groton and New London, CT again to see what changes had happened both at the Submarine base and in the town. M & D said that the submarine base is prettier than they remember with some newer, more modern buildings. They noticed many of the street signs were named after subs lost...including what year and how many went down with them...Sobering... 

Dad started out his naval career in the submarine service having survived his interview with the "Father of the Submarine Program", Admiral Hyman Rickover. He was a brilliant, eccentric leader/character, immigrant that few crossed...After struggling through half of the submarine school; (as a psychology major, not math or engineering) dad recognized this program wasn't where he could best serve the Navy. That decision resulted in a second Rickover interview, when he told Rickover as much...

Mom said we will never know, but Rickover must have agreed with him. Dad was reassigned as a Surface Warfare Officer and sent to the Atlantic Fleet in Norfolk aboard the USS John King. He honorably served for five years on active duty and another 25 in reserve...all which sent him all over the world including serving in the the Vietnam War. During his reserve duty, he had the honor of driving a ship loaded with Midshipman over to the Queen's Silver Jubilee in 1977 in Portsmouth, England. Mom joined him and it's one of their cherished memories of their time there...(This area is a sentimental place for them since they got engaged here almost 50 years ago...)

New London,CT like Norfolk, VA have really cleaned and spruced up their cities to be quite the cool, hip towns. This snazzy waterfront area was really lovely...nothing like the old days... nasty massage parlors, titty bars and worse...What in the world are those places???

As we were enjoying the downtown scenery, M & D realized that they had never been to the US Coast Guard Academy, not far from downtown New London. 

With their military ID's they had no trouble getting on campus...WOW! Like the other academies this one didn't disappoint! Gorgeous!!! 

Dad reminded us that it was Alexander Hamilton, as the Secretary of the Treasury who established this academy. There was a hall named after him and more than one sculpture...Mom loved their motto, "Semper Paratus," on all their artistic banners...Dad, the latin expert translated, "Always Prepared"

Mom said if she had to chose one academy, it would be this one because you don't have to wait for a war. "You are always needed for something." The large, black sculptural looking object is actually a buoy. For those wanting to have a quick visit, another virtual tour

Since we weren't far from one of my folk's favorite, charming small town, Stonington, CT we drove there...

We tried to eat at the DogWatch Cafe, only to discover it was the popular dining place in town...reservations preferred at all times...Shucks! As cool as it was, M & D didn't feel like waiting...Although mom was tempted to buy some of their really clever shirts...since some of the proceeds goes to rescue dogs... 

M & D didn't recognize Skipper's Dock, the old Stonington waterfront restaurant that they had eaten in years ago...The last time they saw it was on the Weather Channel during Hurricane Sandy, when the parking lot was completely underwater...It's now the much fancier Breakwater that you see above.

Mom and dad decided that their last two days here were going to be laid back...enjoying more places in Westerly. After talking to our campsite neighbors, we were told to eat at the old Haversham restaurant. Dad loves his prime rib and it's what they are known for on the weekend... It didn't disappoint...Fabulous food, atmosphere and service... I wouldn't know since they left me behind. Mom did treat me to bits of her leftovers...Delicious! 

After another The Cooked Goose brunch, we drove to see one of the many beaches around Westerly, RI, Watchhill. It's supposed to be public beach, but when we drove by it and through the residential and commercial areas, you have to be incredibly creative not to spend a fortune going to this beach. The website explains how to become a beach member for a year...Mom found this Vogue article when she was researching Watchhill beach...So, for you Taylor Swift fans...

You are looking back to Oceanhouse that's celebrating its 150th year... It reminded us of the Del in Coronado, CA. We weren't about to pay $50 to park for the day, so we kept going... 

Our best find here as we said is the Pawcatuck River. It's free to park, we get to see swimmers, khakiers, paddle boarders and today a car boat or an amphicar...

Pippi gets to fetch and swim to her heart's content....playing with us and new friends... If I can find enough connectivity, I'll post a couple videos of Pippi and the car boat...

For Father's Day mom offered dad a number of suggestions, knowing that he wanted to be back to watch the US Open Golf Tournament finish at Torrey Pines. That San Diego municipal golf course isn't far from Mike, my human brother's house. Mike and his friend, Derek were going to two days of the tournament. We can't wait to hear what that was like... 

Dad chose mom's suggestion of starting the day with one of her breakfasts here, afterwards heading to the Langworthy Farm which is close by. It turned out to be a relaxing way to celebrate Father's Day with a delightful cheese & fruit plate while their tasting their wine. Their large patio was located beside the old, farm's side yard with their luscious, verdant, green grass and mature trees. (I was bummed that M & D wouldn't let me roll around in that pristine grass. Rats!) 

Shauna was our charming and informative hostess, who loved me!!! This tiny farm grows exclusively white grapes and buys the rest to blend. The original Queen Anne farmhouse doubles as a B & B. It would be a fabulous place for a small outdoor gathering. I personally loved the cheeses, while M & D did enjoy three of their wines that they bought to bring with us.

After leaving the winery, we headed to the cute town of Wakefield, RI off RI-1N to 

Whalers Brewery. Dad had their IPA since we have been up here and liked it. M & D skipped the flights and just chose a glass each of their own favorite. 

Mom thought that this craft beer's business plan was simple but brilliant. Make a good beer, locally market it, add a tasting room in an old Victorian textile building. The tasting room was mammoth with tons of inside space for families to bring their kids, dogs, outside food, play games, and hang out...There was a wonderful mix of upbeat music to keep the mood lively and an interesting mix of people of all ages, socioeconomic levels and cultures. I enjoyed meeting a couple of puppies: a Cockapoo and an Aussiepoo. Ali, Kyle and crew were very welcoming, helpful and informed...Ali gave mom more places to visit in this area...

Mom loves these old stone buildings being repurposed into a variety of businesses. We have seen that often up here and it's really refreshing!!!

Once again, M & D are already putting together another Eastern Coast trip in their minds for a couple of summers from now...We definitely want to return to spend a week on Cape Cod and a few other islands along this coast...even a week here isn't enough to take so much in...

One of mom and dad's observations up here is that much of this area is still very rural. Waze, the GPS phone app we use has taken us on so many tiny roads that have no middle paint lines because they are so narrow, incredibly curvy and hilly. Basically treacherous! Which is why we are traveling on them only with our truck. 

Like when they were on Moondance, they feel like we are seeing a good mix of rural and city...So much of it beautiful and picturesque!!! We are loving life for sure...